Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city is little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children do not want to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to discover these tales and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
